Estepona – day 5

Today was our last day in Estepona so we were up earlish and down by the pool in order to catch the sun.

We had a late lunch and then headed into Gibraltar. We left the car in Spain with our luggage in it and walked across the border into Gibraltar.

You have to walk across the runway once you’re over the border which feels a bit weird. Luckily the airport isn’t that busy.

Gibraltar is obviously famous for its rock, which is 426m high, but we didnt have time to climb it and get back down before our flight. The rock is home to the Barbary Apes, a type of tail-less macaque which are the only wild monkeys in Europe

So we had a wander around the town instead.

Gibraltar has a really long main street, but to be honest it wasn’t all that interesting.

We then headed back over the border to pick up our luggage before coming back to the airport in Gibraltar. Just after we crossed the border I realised I’d left my phone in the rental car. So Jamie and I had to go back to Spain to pick it up – luckily we had left enough time.


At the airport we had a drink and then watched our plane land.


We were delayed by around 20 minutes but we had a little sleep on the plane.


It took a while to get back to the car park and then both the M23 and some of the M25 were closed. So the journey home took longer than we wanted but we all arrived safely.

Estepona – day 4

Today we started the day with beer. Probably not the best idea.

We then went for a walk along the beach into Estepona port. About 5 minutes into the walk we stopped for a little refreshment.

It was quite a cloudy day but still very warm. We spotted a shark in the water (not really).

At Estepona port we had a drink at one of the yacht clubs before wandering around the market.

It was really busy at the port, everyone seemed to be out for a Sunday stroll. We stopped off at one of the restaurants at the port, almost directly by the sea, and ate some delicious, and very fresh, fish tapas. The place was rammed so we stood outside. The waiters don’t write your order down, but remember it, and then shout out your name when your dishes are ready. It’s a crazy system but it seems to work.

Unfortunately Ticket doesn’t really like fish so we went to another restaurant to find something he would like.

We stayed here, relaxing with a couple of bottles of wine and some sort of hazelnut liqueur for a couple of hours.

And then it was time for dessert at an ice cream parlour.

After which it was back to the salsa club where Jamie, Ticket and Alicia joined in with a salsa lesson.

Around 10pm we started to make our way home, walking back along the beach.

Jamie and I decided to go for a little swim and the sea was actually not too cold.

When we got home, we sat up for a bit chatting and singing along to all the old favourites – Bowie, Nat King Cole, Pink Floyd etc.

I think it was around 2am when we went to bed.

Estepona – day 3

So today was a relaxing day. After getting home around 7am and devouring all the dippy cheese and jamon we went to bed. But I was awake again at 1030am. We had snacks for breakfast and then I went for a swim and laid by the pool.

The others went back to bed. I got a little bit burnt on the back of my legs.

We spent the rest of the afternoon watching films and eating snacks and I even managed a beer or two.

In the evening we bought some food from the supermarket and had a fairly healthy dinner.

And we just stayed in, watched tv, chatted and drank some wine.

Estepona – day 2

We had a lazy start to the day, having breakfast around 10:30am. Around midday we headed to Ronda, a historical southern Spanish town. Jamie drove us along the windy mountain roads.We got stuck behind a lorry and couldn’t overtake for ages.

On the way up we took a little rest break at a viewing point. Unfortunately it was pretty cloudy so the views weren’t that great. But it was a good opopportunity to relieve ourselves!

We arrived in Ronda and had a little wander through the main street.

We stopped at an Argentinian place to have some empanadas and beer, but they weren’t that great. And we sent the calamari back as it wasn’t actually squid that they served us.

Next stop was in another ham and wine shop.

And then we wandered down to the older part of the town, stopping on the way for a glass of tio pepe (white sherry).

Ronda is famous for its bullfighting and it has the oldest bullring in Spain, built in 1785. It is a neo-classical style, but we didn’t go inside.

During the 18th century, Fransisco Romero was the first matador to face the bull on foot rather than on horseback at this bullring.

We wandered round the edge of the El Tajo gorge.

There were a lot of ferral cats around, sleeping and eating in the sun. They seemed in really good condition but wouldn’t come up to you.

This is looking back to one of the platforms looking out over the gorge

These platforms are known locally as ‘Balcons Coños’ as they are scary to staand on.We then walked on to the Puente Neuve (new bridge). This was completed in 1793 after 40 years of constraction. 50 workers lost their lives in the building of the bridge which is 100m deep.

The bridge connects the older and newer parts of the town.

Ronda is one of the famous white towns of Andalusia.

On the way home we stopped at Aldi and Mercado to do a quick shop.

We had a delicious dinner before relaxing on the balcony with a drink or two.

Around 11pm we headed down to the port and sat by the boats as we drank our bottles.

We played some more table football (I lost again) and then partyed until around 7am.

Estepona- day 1

I was up at 330am, showered, hair washed and dried and last minute items packed by 4am. Jamie and Ticket arrived at mine and then we were off to Gatwick. I didn’t realise the long stay car park was so far away from the airport but we made it in time for the flight.We all had a little snooze on the plane and then a g&t!After landing in Gibraltar we bought some very cheap alcohol in the tiny duty free shop before walking across to Spain. In Spain we picked up our hire car and Jamie drove us to the flat, it’s only about 25 minutes and along a coastal road.We quickly unpacked and headed to the swimming pool to catch some rays.Whilst we were sunbathing Alicia prepared a delicious Spanish lunch.We decided it would be a good idea to walk off some of the food we’d eaten. So we set off, walking along the beach.Just up from the apartment is a nudist beach which made for some interesting sights! We also came across a huge jellyfish.We walked up to some small rocks at the far end of the beach where we took a little rest.Alicia and Jamie decided to walk across to some larger rocks, but that wasn’t such a good idea as Jamie slipped and managed to get some sea uurchin spikes in his feet.Alicia performed emergency surgery and managed to extract one of the spines but we couldn’t get to the others. So we walked back to the apartment and Jamie managed to get the rest of them out using needles and and tweezers.After all that drama, alcohol was needed.And then it was time to get ready to go out!We got the bus into Estepona and walked through the town to a posh tapas place.The food was delicious! We had a beer here before heading off to another tapa place where we had more tasty fod and a beer or two!Alicia then took us to a small club where we played table football- I was not particularly good at this and let in quite a few goals.We then walked through town, the small streets are really beautiful.We decided to walk down to the port ewhich is where the nightlife is. On the way we had a little fun in the playground.At the port we stopped at a bar where Alicia and Jamie had a shisha.We also had a little dance!On the way to get a taxi we stopped off at a salsa club and I had a little bachatta dance with a very good dancer!I think it was the early hours of the momorning when we got home.

Secret London Gin run

Today I ran a 10k route in London with Mandy, Helen and Lou. Along the way we learnt all about the history of gin.

On the train to Waterloo we had a little traveller to help us on the way.

We met the other people on the run, and the tun leader Matt, at an old pub, Ye Olde Cock Tavern, where the upper floor is now a gin palace.

Our first stop was at the riverside where we learnt that the definition of a gin is neutral spirit with juniper. So basically gin is just vodka with juniper berries.

At some of the stops our run leader had hats or other props for people to wear to try and bring the story more to life!

We then ran on to Cleopatra’s needle. Apparently the Egyptians used juniper for jaundice. It was later used by the Greeks for male enhancement purposes. And in the Roman times juniper was steeped in wine for chest infections. And although this was a combination of juniper and alcohol it wasn’t gin.

We carried on to St Martin’s in the field where we learnt that juniper was used by alchemists and in apothecaries. Alchemists believe that everything is related to four main elements- earth, wind, fire and water – and anything can be made from this. The apothecaries used juniper for many purposes including as a cure for the plague.

John Parkinson was an apothecarist and belonged to the worshipful company of apothecaries.

The next stop was by Trafalgar square at the statue of Charles I. Charles I supported the Dutch when they were at war against France. The Dutch were drinking gin and they drank this before going into battle and this is where the saying ‘dutch courage’ comes from. The Dutch and English won the war and to say thank you the Dutch itch gave a large quantity of gin to the British to take home with them.

So gin became a popular drink.

We ran on to Westminister Abbey and to No 1 the Sanctuary. This is the location of the Worshipful company of distillers and they made sure that the gin was of a certain quality. Around this time Samuel Peeps wrote in his diary that he had been suffering from constipation and that drinking gin, juniper water, had relieved this.

William of Orange came to power in 1688 and war there was a war with France. Beacause of this William banned all french products and this included french brandy. French brandy was the drink of noblemen who were slightly annoyed with this. They substituted the brandy with gin.

Our next stop was a statue of Anna, known as Brandy Anna, who came to power after William of Orange. She cancelled the charter of the worshipful company of distillers. Once this was cancelled, in order to produce gin, all you had to do was put a letter in your window to say you intended to distill gin and if this was not opposed in 10 days then you could start your production. This led to lots of gin houses where people produced gin in all sorts of ways, including in bathtubs.

William of Orange was not a popular monarch and their is only one statue of him in a private garden in London. Before William became king the previous king was Charles II. Charles was a catholic but the people didn’t want a Catholic king. In order to avoid being beheaded, Charles II renounced the throne to Mary. It was felt that Mary needed support so she had to marry William of Orange. William had asthma so he lived in Kensington outside of the pollution and smog in london. He was said to be very ugly and apparently Mary cried when she knew she had to marry him. Despite this e had lots of sex with both sexes. William died falling off his own horse as the horse went over a small mole hill. The statue shows and mocks this.

And then it was on to St Giles in the field past s very nice shop selling lots of gin.

St Giles used to be quite a poor part of London and gin was everywhere. Signs said ‘drunk for a penny, dead drunk for twopence, straw for nothing’. The straw was there for people to pass out on. Gin was extremely cheap – cheaper than ale, but the quality was really bad. The gin was toxic and made with turpentine and sulphur acid. People literally lost their sight from drinking it – blind drunk. Mothers drank gin and many babies were stillborn or deformed – mother’s ruin. Lots of children drank it too and many of them died before the age of 5.

In 1732 there was a case heard at the old bailey. Judith Defur was tried for the murder of her child. Her child was 2 years old and she said she couldn’t afford to look after it so she took it to the workhouse. The child was clothed and fed. After 2 days Judith picked up her child from the workhouse. She strangled it and sold the clothes to buy gin. Judith was hung at the old bailey.

And then we carried on to Bow Street where there was a stone commemorating some notable men including Henry Fielding. Henry was a magistrate and had two pictures commissioned- gin alley and beer street. The beer street depicted a much nicer scene and the message was drink beer and you will have a better time than drinking gin.

So a number of gin acts were put in place. The acts were aimed at the gin sellers and basically anyone selling gin had to have a license. These cost £50 each and only two were ever sold.
In 1738 they had 5 acts in place but people got round the acts in a number of ways. One of the most notable ones was the black cat in blue cap alley. People would put money in the mouth of the cat in the wall and gin would came out of its paw.

In 1751 the Tippling act came into force and this targeted the people making the gin. The act said that gin could only be distilled in 18 hectare vats and only be sold to taverns.

Also in 1757 there was a massive food shortage and the ingredients that went into gin were used for food instead and this also had an impact on gin production.

In 1761 the laws were elaxed a bit, but you continued to still need a license to make gin and be a licensed distillery.

In the 1800s there was the creation of public houses and many of these were in a sorry state. Gin Distillerys payed some pubs to be done up so they could then sell them their products.

This led to the creation of gin palaces, over 5000 in 5 years. Gin became a bohemian drink.

Lord Byron started to drink gin and water which is an early vesrion of a gin and tonic. People are still trying to recreate some of the oldecipes today.

The gin trade began disappating again in 1900s and vodka became more popular as it was easier to prepare and drink. Gin became the drink of the grannies.

The Tippling act inhibited innovation as 18 hectare vats meant that you couldn’t try new gins. In 2008-2010 both Sipsmith and Chase distillers managed to overturn the Tippling act. So more distilleries started to open and there are now 390 registered in this country to date. In the City of london there is only one distillary within the square mile.

£1 billion of gin was sold last year.

Back at the pub we were rewarded with a Sipsmith gin and tonic – it was very welcome.

Koh Rong to Siem Reap

We all woke up early as there was a massive thunderstorm this morning which started around 330am. I tried to capture the rain coming down and the lightening but not that successfully.

We had to leave early anyway this morning to catch the 630am ferry back to the mainland. So we stayed up, finished our packing and watched the sunrise. It’s such a beautiful time of day.

We said goodbye to our bungalow and set off for the walk along the beach to the pier, which was a bit of a struggle with our heavy bags.

It was a bit worrying as when we got to the ferry terminal there was nobody there. At around 630am somebody did turn up but they said the ferry would arrive around 7am. Eventually we left about 730am. I slept the whole way on the ferry as I was really tired.

Once we got to Sihanoukville we had some breakfast and then got a taxi to the airport where we had time for a quick drink before boarding our flight.

The flight was only 50 minutes but I slept for most of that too.

In Siem Reap we were met by a driver from the hotel. He was only expecting two of us for some reason so had only come in a tuk tuk. Somehow we managed to fit all four of us plus all our big and small bags into the tuk tuk and we set off for the hotel.

The hotel was down a little back street but actually looked really nice. The staff are lovely and can’t do enough for you.

After a quick look around the room, which was very spacious and clean, we headed off to downtown Siem Reap to go shopping. The markets were fantastic, really colourful and a real mix of food, clothes and souviners.

We all bought a few little bits to take home!

It was then time for a late lunch of pan fried fish with rice and sauces and the best spring rolls to date – they were so fresh.

On the way back to the hotel we got a ride in the cowboy tuk tuk and sang along to a few classics such as sweet child of mine!

At the hotel we had a lovely shower and freshen up before heading out to the circus. This circus is very special as the performers are all former street children that have been educated in performing arts. Any money generated supports the free education and social programs of Phare Ponleu Selpak non-profit school.

The performance was amazing, very entertaining, lots of skill and talent and also really funny.

We were all really impressed with the show.

We were picked up by the hotel tuk tuk driver and headed to pub street. Our first stop was a sky bar which was beautiful but pretty quiet.

We then headed to the main street where we stopped for another th and coke. It was really noisy with loud music from all of the bars, it was difficult to know what to listen too.

We went to another, slightly quite bar called miss Wong for a final drink before heading home.

Another day on Koh Rong island

We were up fairly early again and I went for another lovely early morning swim in the sea before breakfast.

We chilled on the beach for a bit and had our photo taken with our challenge t-shirts on.

As we laid on the beach some of the local dogs came along and one of them befriended us and laid down with us.

We went to out now local restaurant for a delicious breakfast of muesli and fresh fruits. After breakfast we decided to go exploring. We were looking for the local ‘zoo’ and we did find it but it was closed as we are still in low season. But we had a stroll through the jungle anyway.

We walked over to the next beach known as Police beach which is where they have a party most nights. It wasn’t as clean or as nice as the beach we were staying on.

As we were walking along one of Ali’s flip flops broke so she had to walk bare foot. Then when we were on police beach one of mine got washed away by the sea! So I had one of Ali’s and one of mine to walk home in and they were both the left foot.

On the way back to ours we stopped at a little bar for a beer.

In the afternoon we chilled some more on the beach.

We had booked to swim with the plankton in the evening so at 7pm we got on the boat and went out to one of the other islands where there was no light pollution. The plankton light up when you splash in the water but it’s really hard to capture on a photo. If you used a snorkel it looked like loads of fairy lights under the water and they were all around you – it was pretty amazing. I spent a lot of time under the water just watching the plankton light up – they were mainly a green or yellow colour.

This isn’t my photo above but this is kind of what they looked like.

After our little boat trip we went back to our restaurant for dinner. My little friend was there too.

After a glass or two of wine it was off to bed.

Koh Rong island

This is a beautiful place with sandy white beaches and gorgeous warm sea. We were up early and just caught the end of the sunrise, around 620am. So much for a lie in!

We spent a couple of hours on the beach before heading to the restaurant for breakfast. I’d made friends with the cutest cat last night and she was around for breakfast too.

After breakfast we had a short stroll down the beach to look at the shops and see what else was around.

The locals here are so friendly and welcoming and also so beautiful. In ‘town we stopped for a beer. Everything feels like so much effort because of the heat.

We went back to our restaurant for lunch, which was so tasty. Most of the afternoon was spent lying on the beach or swimming in the warm waters of the Indian ocean. In the late afternoon we all went and had a massage. I had a Khmer massage which is a bit like a Thai massage but not so deep, it just relieves all the tension by working on the pressure points.

In the evening we had a couple of cocktails at the bar and then headed into town and ended up having pizza at a place called Coco.

We went to a different bar for a final rum and coke before we headed off to bed.

Siem Reap to Koh Rong island

After our last night our with the group we were up at 7am to have breakfast and get out tuk-tuk to the airport. A few other people in the group were up so we said goodbye again. It was quite emotional leaving everyone.

The tuk tuk to the airport took around 15 minutes and was pretty uneventful.

It was then a short wait at the airport until we boarded our flight for Sihanoukville. The flight was also quite short, around 1 hour.

At the airport we were met by someone from the bungalows we will be staying at on the island. He dropped us at the dive shop where we paid for the accomodation and the ferry ticket. We had a while to wait for the ferry so we sat and had a quick beer.

We had a very short tuk tuk ride to the ferry. We got on one ferry that was due to leave at 130pm and were then asked to change to another ferry leaving at 2pm. The ferry trip across to Koh Rong took around 45 minutes. Once we arrived on the island we walked down the beach for around 15 minutes to our accommodation. That was a hard walk through the sand with our heavy bags. But the chalet we are staying in is lovely with a jungle shower.

After dumping our bags we went to the restaurant and had lunch. I had some barracuda and noodles which was delicious.

It was a lovely view from the restaurant and we just stayed here most of the evening drinking wine and nibbling on spring rolls.

From here we just strolled back to our chalet / bungalow and went to sleep. Well, we tried to but there was a party going on in the chalet behind us so none of us slept that well.